Millions of beauty seekers and their value chain practitioners risk life-altering ailments and fatality from repeated use of unregulated synthetic hair products. With researches confirming the presence of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that are endocrine disruptors, and those that negatively impact women’s reproductive health in synthetic braids and hair attachments, ENO-ABASI SUNDAY observes a nexus between rising cancer cases among women, reproductive health challenges among females of child-bearing age, and the need for massive awareness creation on the dangers of synthetic braids.
Twenty-six-year-old Funmilola Olafimihan is a mother of four, who plaits hair for a living. In her dinghy-like kiosk, where she operates from in the Ojuwoye area of Mushin, some odds and ends of her trade are strewn around carelessly.
On a three-tiered small plastic shelf lie used candles of various sizes and a few matchboxes. Competing for space are all sizes of combs, assorted containers of hair creams, hair relaxers, and some wraps of locally processed shea butter, better known as ori.
Seated in a medium-sized empty carton of cereal, in one corner of the kiosk, is one of her latest bundles of joy – a baby girl, Taiye, who intermittently lets out a sharp, shrill cry when she needs her mother’s attention. As this happens, Kehinde, the other twin, a male, is having a good nap straddling his mother’s back.
After pacifying Taiye by slipping a few pieces of biscuits into her dusty palms, the 16-month-old dutifully laces them with several strands of synthetic hair while nibbling away.
“Madam, this baby is eating hair alongside her biscuit,” a concerned passerby drew Olafimihan’s attention. “Ese jare! e no go kill am,” she responded, adding, “na so all of them dey chop hair; including their senior brother and sister. Na their second food.”
“But we understand that these synthetic braids are made with chemicals that can cause cancer that will kill human beings,” The Guardian chipped in. “If na so, all of us for don’t die finish. Where I learn work, na 25 apprentice we be. If you add my madam and workers wey she dey pay salary, we pass 30, but none of us wey attachment kill,” Olafimihan asserted authoritatively.
Uzoamaka Nwanoeze, an economist-turned fabric dealer, has three daughters, whom she dotes on heavily. Ahead of last Easter celebration, she spent nearly N80,000 to fix her hair and that of her daughters at an upscale hair mart in the Surulere area of Lagos.
On getting home with her beautiful daughters, her husband drew her attention to a news item that was making the rounds among local and international news outlets just before the Easter celebration, which she found troubling.
“My daughters are all that I have, so I spare no expense in taking care of them. I am indeed as particular about their looks/appearance just the same way I am particular with their education, but when my husband drew my attention to a recent news item, I became really unsettled because, truth be told, this is not the first time that I have heard about this finding.”
Conversely, Akunne Okafor, a hair dealer, is aware of the likely devastating consequences of synthetic braids but still can’t resist the pull or the allure of these unregulated products.
“Truth be told, this is not the first time that I have heard about this dangerous claim, but let’s face it, what options are there? Even if these braids are banned, they will still find their way into the country, where their prices will compete with those of human hair.
“That is the challenge that we are facing. Many women, who want to look good and sophisticated, think that our traditional hairstyles are local, hence the ones that are buoyant wear human hair. So, the middle class and the poor ones are the ones going for the synthetic braids that they can afford,” Okafor said.
Your ‘beauty’ could be poisoning you
OVER the years, mounting evidence suggests that chemicals in fake or synthetic hair, and sundry hair products marketed to Black girls and women, including hair relaxers, contain endocrine-disrupting substances linked with reproductive health issues, early menstruation, and cancer.
The widespread controversies surrounding these products and increased cancer risk notwithstanding, they have remained highly unregulated in the country over the years, and may have contributed immensely to the country’s health burden.
Last year, Consumer Reports, which has a long history of testing products for chemical contamination and evaluating their comparative safety, began the process of testing 10 of the most popular synthetic braiding hair products on the market in the United States.
Some of the brands sent to the laboratory include Magic Fingers, Sassy Collection, Sensationnel, Debut, Darling, Shake-N-Go, Hbegant braids and others. Surprisingly, carcinogens were detected in all of them.
Ahead of the initiative, the outfit’s director and head of product safety testing, Dr James Rogers, who is also the synthetic braiding hair test leader said that his team had three goals in mind thus: to determine whether VCOs were present at all; whether they could be measured, and whether there was a way of determining possible risks to consumers of these products.
A breakdown of the result obtained by Consumer Reports left many jaw-dropping. Of the 10 tested synthetic braiding hair products, toxins were found in all. For example, three products contained benzene, a carcinogen, which has been linked with acute myeloid leukaemia. Nine out of 10 products contained unsafe levels of lead, which in adults can cause kidney damage, cardiovascular problems, reproductive damage, and brain damage, and in children can lead to brain and nervous system damage, learning disabilities, behavioural problems, and developmental delays. The VOCs found at the highest levels in the hair products were acetone, a respiratory irritant.
Consumer Reports quoted Tamarra James-Todd, Mark and Catherine Winkler Associate Professor of Environmental Reproductive Epidemiology and lab director of the Environmental Reproductive Justice Lab, as saying that chemicals in synthetic braiding hair “look like endocrine disrupters – they look like things that can mess with our body’s normal hormonal system.”
James-Todd, who noted that Black women have been found to have much higher blood and urine concentrations of these chemicals, added: “These (chemicals) don’t operate in isolation; they’re operating together,” she said.
For people who wear synthetic braids, the chemicals are “sitting on your scalp and … can be dermally absorbed. (They) … can be inhaled. Somebody touches their hair and they eat something, it’s hand-to-mouth, so it can enter the body that way as well.”
Nigeria, according to the 2022 Global Cancer Observatory (GLOBOCAN) report, faces severe cancer-related challenges, with at least 127,763 new cases and 79,542 deaths reported in that year.
Of all the cancer types, the most prevalent among them was breast cancer, particularly among women, while prostate cancer tipped the scales among men.
Be that as it may, in the wake of the latest revelation by Consumer Reports, international scholars and health experts, including Professor of Environmental Health at Emory University, Carmen Marsit, while reacting to the gale of health challenges that volatile organic compounds (VOCs) do to the human body alleged that: “These chemicals can go in and bind to your DNA and lead to mutations and this could go on to form a cancer.”
Marsit specifically stressed that Benzene does not need to be ingested before being harmful to the body, as according to him, hair is near the face, and so the proximity to the face makes freely inhaling these dangerous chemicals over a long time lead to health concerns.
Last year, Nwanne Dike Ijere, a PhD researcher at the Federal University of Technology Owerri, Imo State, spearheaded a study done in Ariaria Market, in Aba, Abia State, which found that contaminants were hiding in synthetic hair as man-made fibres go through various chemical processes to make them look and feel more like human hair.
The study noted that raw materials used to make some of the products are toxic, and the hair products are mainly made from plastics, which are not biodegradable, hence also harmful to the environment.
A total of 10 synthetic hair brands commonly worn by women- some made in Nigeria and others in China, Ghana and the USA- were tested, and all of them reportedly had different levels of contaminants such as silver, cadmium, chromium, nickel, vanadium and lead, including several pesticides which are hazardous to human health.
In a report titled: “Your hair could be poisoning you,” published in The Conversation, the researchers wrote: “We bought 10 popular synthetic hair brands of various colours (Catherine, Eye Candy, Gold, Calypso, LVH, Dazzler, Mini Bob, Nectar, Diana and X-pression) from the Ariaria International market in Aba, in south-eastern Abia State. The samples were analysed in a laboratory.
We used the United States Standard Methods for the Examination of Water and Wastewater to determine the presence of heavy metals (such as cadmium, zinc, lead, chromium, manganese, iron, mercury, copper and nickel) in the synthetic hair, and we found heavy metals in significant amounts.
Unregulated beauty products spike cancer risks, life-threatening consequences
OWING to the slow gestation period of most cancers, as well as gross lack of awareness on the dangers of unregulated beauty products by appropriate government agencies, many in the beauty value chain pay scant heed to the worries about the presence of VCOs in beauty products.
But the Nigeria Cancer Society (NCS) thinks it is time things are put in the right perspective to save the country from a looming health emergency.
According to the President/Chief Executive Officer of NCS, Prof. Abidemi Omonisi: “There are legitimate concerns that long-term or occupational exposure to synthetic hair products may increase cancer risk over time. Hair stylists and frequent users inhale or absorb hazardous substances regularly, often in poorly ventilated environments. This makes preventive education and policy reforms essential.
“Furthermore, there is growing scientific evidence linking certain unregulated beauty products to increased cancer risk, particularly among women. Many of these synthetic hair products contain carcinogens or hormone-disrupting agents. Therefore, stronger laws, routine product testing, and stricter enforcement of importation and marketing regulations are urgently needed to protect public health,” Omonisi, an anatomic pathologist with special interest in cancer epidemiology and molecular pathology told The Guardian, adding: “While not yet classified as an emergency, their widespread use (especially prolonged or repeated exposure) calls for urgent attention from health authorities, regulators, and the public.
The National Agency for Drugs Administration and Control (NAFDAC) agrees that the discovery of contaminants in synthetic hair constitutes a significant public health concern, given the widespread usage among Nigerian women. Studies have shown that most synthetic hairs have different levels of heavy metal contaminants, such as silver, cadmium, chromium, nickel, vanadium, and lead, including several pesticides, which are hazardous to human health.
“The metals that are used to stabilise the polymer are not bound to it. They can leach out over time or when exposed to light. So, when women wear synthetic hair, whether as attachments, weave-ons or wigs, on their heads or as fake eyelashes, they risk exposure to lead and other heavy metals. This is the case for all synthetic hair brands made from plastics.”
Prohibitive cost of treatment, dearth of experts as health concerns
DOUBTLESS, with the rising number of cancer cases in the country, the country’s oncologist-to-patient ratio should be one to a maximum of 500, but in Nigeria, it is one oncologist to almost 1,800 cancer patients, as the country currently has fewer than 80 clinical oncologists serving the entire population.
Besides this severe shortage of experts, access to treatment is also an uphill task that is worsened by the prohibitive cost of treatment.
According to experts, managing a cancer patient from diagnosis to stabilisation could cost on average between N16 million and N20 million, and chemotherapy alone, especially for breast cancer, could gulp as much as N1.5 million monthly, a figure far out of reach for most citizens. So, even when facilities are available, many patients cannot afford to commence or complete their treatment regimen.
For Mfoniso Abasi-Ubong, a medical health professional, since the generality of Nigerian women, especially the young ones, do not know what they are dealing with, it is time the appropriate government organs step up awareness creation.
“Nothing would save the day than the country’s health authorities mounting a sustained campaign to educate the average Nigerian, especially women, about the risks involved in using unregulated beauty products because at the rate that things are going, women are unknowingly exposed to diverse health challenges in their bid to look good,” she stated.
Abasi-Ubong, a private sector worker, continued: “It is really not that women prioritise beauty over their safety, but the fact that cancer is not like malaria parasites or some other medical challenges, that their gestation period is short; it is a real challenge.”
Booming hair care market could spin dire health emergency
IN 2023, the Nigerian hair care market was valued at approximately $1.16 billion and was $1.31 billion by 2024.
By the end of this year, the revenue in the country’s hair care market is projected to reach $1.46bn, even as it is anticipated that the market will experience an annual growth rate of 8.52 per cent according to the Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR 2025-2030). On a per capita basis, the revenue generated per person in the country is estimated to be $6.23 this year.
Two years ago, Nigeria imported $429 million worth of synthetic braids (also referred to as fake hair), according to The Observatory of Economic Complexity. This made Nigeria the 2nd largest importer of fake hair globally. The main suppliers of these braids were China, Hong Kong, the United Kingdom, the Philippines, and the United States.
When contacted for their comments on the VCOs inherent in their products, some hair manufacturers in the country declined to comment outright. LUSH Hair, a popular brand of hair in the country, asked that the inquiries be channelled electronically. This was done, but no response came after several weeks.
Poor awareness creation
ACCORDING to an endocrinologist and Head of the Endocrinology, Diabetes, and Metabolism Division, Lagos University Teaching Hospital (LUTH), Prof Olufemi Fasanmade: “Endocrine disruptors are highly prevalent in the world today, likewise carcinogens, and co-carcinogens due to rising use of preservatives, plastics, pesticides, herbicides, colourants, sweeteners, etc., hence there is a need for concerted efforts at raising awareness, reducing the risk of exposure and the provision of antidotes.”
As a consequence of this, “infertility in both males and females is on the increase, just as the development of cancers is also steadily rising. We therefore should teach people how to recognise the presence of the offending substances and chemicals in the neighbourhood,” he said.
For Dr Udeme Ekpenyong Ekrikpo, an Associate Professor of Medicine/Honorary Consultant Nephrologist at the Department of Internal Medicine, University of Uyo, Akwa Ibom State, since Nigeria “already has a significant epidemiologic transition, where there is a surge in non-communicable diseases (NCDs) and death from NCDs, while communicable diseases like Malaria, Pneumonia (respiratory tract infections), and HIV have not been eradicated, adding on avoidable environmental toxins that can cause cancers is not a good idea.”
Lengthy exposure to VCOs could reduce pregnancy chances
BUTTRESSING Fasanmade’s submission that carcinogens play a role in the rising cases of infertility is a medical doctor and Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of Preggify, Dr Ifunanya Lillian Igweze, who emphasised that commonest chemicals found in these products are lead, mercury and pesticides, which can cause serious harm to the body, especially for women in their reproductive years.
Igweze said, “In Nigeria and across many African communities, braided hairstyles and wigs are the go-to fashion for women. Apart from being trendy, it boosts confidence and passes for more convenience, especially for busy women. Lead, which is found in paints and pipes, has now found its way into everyday fashion products used by women. In women, high levels of lead can disturb hormone balance, affect egg quality, and even alter the menstrual cycle. Over time, regular exposure like wearing braids made with contaminated hair for a protracted period can silently reduce your chances of getting pregnant.
“More so, if you’re already pregnant or planning to be, the risk is even more serious. Lead can pass from mother to baby through the placenta, increasing the risk of miscarriage, low birth weight, preterm birth, or developmental issues for the baby. What makes this deeply worrying is that the exposure does not always manifest in ways we can see until it starts affecting fertility or pregnancy outcomes. Particularly, lead can alter DNA and may adversely affect the child’s brain development in later life.
As a reproductive health physician, Igweze charged women who are trying to conceive, or looking after their holistic health, to start making safer, more informed choices with the following as a few practical steps.
“Rinse synthetic hair extensions in vinegar before use. This may help remove some chemical residues, even though it’s not a perfect solution. Reduce often wearing of braids with synthetic hair, especially if you’re trying to get pregnant or already struggling with fertility; go natural by braiding your own hair often or installing natural dreadlocks; consider safer alternatives, like human hair or certified non-toxic synthetic brands even though it may cost more, and join your voices in awareness to expedite policy action towards safer fashion products for women,” Igweze submitted.
‘NAFDAC’s response to the emerging risks grossly insufficient’
NAFDAC maintains that a cosmetic product is any substance or mixture of substances intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the complexion, skin, hair, or teeth. The agency also regulates the manufacture, importation, exportation, advertisement, sale, distribution, and use of cosmetics in the country.
Given this scenario, many, including the trio of Abasi-Ubong, Ekrikpo and Omonisi, believe that the agency has been pathetic in assaying chemical components of synthetic hair/braids and creating the desired awareness needed to keep Nigerians safe.
“NAFDAC has been pathetic in keeping tabs on beauty products, which is the reason that thousands of such products flood the market. Most users of these synthetic braids, both in towns and rural areas, are not aware of the life-threatening consequences of what they are using. If NAFDAC were to be as effective in drawing attention to these unregulated products the way it does to fake and substandard drugs, the society would have been better served,” said Abasi-Ubong.
On his part, Ekrikpo while admitting that “Black women have higher urine and blood concentrations of these chemicals because the use of braids is more prevalent in the Black female population,” stressed that NAFDAC (and the Standards Organisation of Nigeria) should assay for these harmful chemicals in all the braids coming into the country and deny (or revoke) clearances given for their commercialisation within Nigeria. It is their statutory function to do that so as to safeguard the health of the nation.”
Omonisi, the Nigeria Cancer Society boss, even though he admitted that “NAFDAC is doing a lot,” also emphasised, “but to be honest, current efforts to verify claims or raise public awareness about toxic chemicals in synthetic hair are insufficient.
While the agency is doing valuable work in other areas, this particular health threat is under-addressed. There is an urgent need for proactive screening, consumer education, and transparent regulation in this overlooked space.”
In reacting to claims that it does not take seriously, the safety of beauty products NAFDAC begged to differ saying to ensure safety it conducts regular testing to detect harmful substances in these products before approvals and more recently, vigorous post-approval surveillance/testing; reviews and updates regulations to align with emerging scientific evidence, and enforces compliance through inspections and penalties for non-compliant importers.
“NAFDAC’s approach to beauty product importers follows a risk-based approach. It differs from the aggressive stance against fake drug importers because drugs pose immediate, life-threatening risks due to their direct ingestion or absorption when treating a health condition (to save lives), whereas beauty products typically present longer-term hazards through skin exposure. It is noteworthy that not all molecules can penetrate the epidermis/skin in the normal state. This distinction influences resource allocation, with drugs receiving higher priority. Nonetheless, NAFDAC is intensifying efforts to step up the regulation of beauty product importers by enhancing enforcement and raising safety standards. NAFDAC is currently playing a front role in the drafting of a national policy on the safety of cosmetics.
“NAFDAC acknowledges that awareness among users and beauticians about the harmful effects of synthetic braids and other beauty products may be low, but this may be majorly among the less educated. Far from being ‘tight-lipped,’ NAFDAC has faced the challenge of educating the citizens through different programmes, including stakeholder engagements, regular school visits and honouring invitations by sectoral groups,” the agency said.
